Three Underground Brands Shaping NYC Streets
Japanese Designer Spotlight: Three Underground Brands Shaping NYC Streets
We’ve moved from skinny jeans to swimming in jeans. Walking through Tokyo’s fashion districts made me realize that stepping outside your comfort zone isn’t just about the clothes—it’s about the courage to embrace what fashion could be.
The fashion world has shifted dramatically in the past few years. What once hugged our bodies now drowns them in fabric. The oversized movement isn’t just a trend—it’s a complete reimagining of how we want to feel in our clothes. And nowhere is this more evident than in the Japanese designers who’ve been quietly influencing this transformation for decades.
Walking the streets of Tokyo, surrounded by loose-fitting silhouettes and architectural proportions, I felt that familiar rush of being somewhere I could experiment without judgment. There’s something liberating about being unknown in a place where fashion takes risks. New York City offers the same anonymity—catch the L train in the evening heading to Brooklyn and you’ll find a fashion show of emerging trends, people brave enough to wear what others are still thinking about.
In the grand scheme of things, there’s more to be said about the courage to step outside your comfort zone than the clothing itself. It demands respect. When we adopt trends from other cultures, we’re not just copying looks—we’re expressing the broad spectrum of what fashion can be. Here are three Japanese designers who embody that fearless approach to style, each offering a different entry point into the oversized, boundary-pushing aesthetic that’s defining this moment.
1. Yohji Yamamoto (Y-3 Collaboration Focus)
The Architectural Pioneer
Before “oversized” became a buzzword, Yamamoto was deconstructing the very idea of how clothes should fit. His collaboration with Adidas through Y-3 represents the perfect fusion of Japanese minimalism and streetwear accessibility—and it’s exactly the kind of piece you see on those evening L train rides to Brooklyn.
Yamamoto’s philosophy centers on “imperfect beauty”—the idea that clothing should enhance the wearer’s natural movement rather than restrict it. This translates into those flowing, architectural pieces you see on downtown creatives who somehow look effortlessly put-together while everyone else is trying too hard. His oversized silhouettes aren’t just loose—they’re intentionally voluminous, creating space between body and fabric that feels both protective and liberating.
The Cultural Impact: Yamamoto didn’t just predict the oversized movement—he created the blueprint. His all-black aesthetic and deconstructed tailoring have become synonymous with downtown NYC cool, the kind of look that says you understand fashion beyond the obvious choices.
Signature Look: Deconstructed tailoring, asymmetrical cuts, and that signature all-black everything approach. Think blazers that drape rather than hug, pants that pool at the ankle, and proportions that challenge conventional ideas of fit.
Standout Piece
T/C TWILL 3-BUTTONS JACKET ($510) – the kind of piece that transforms any outfit into a statement. When you wear it, you’re not just wearing a jacket—you’re wearing a philosophy.
Affordable Alternative
Uniqlo U Oversized Blazer ($79.90) – Uniqlo’s collaboration line often channels Yamamoto’s minimalist DNA since he’s worked with them extensively. It won’t have the same architectural precision, but it captures that intentionally oversized aesthetic.
Nigo
The Americana Reimagined
Before founding BAPE, Nigo created Human Made as his more mature, Americana-influenced project. This brand perfectly captures that “old man swag” trend that’s taking over NYC streets—the kind of vintage-inspired pieces that feel both nostalgic and completely current.
Human Made represents Nigo’s love letter to American workwear, filtered through Japanese attention to detail and that loose, comfortable fit that defines the current moment. The result is clothing that feels both nostalgic and futuristic—like finding your grandfather’s work jacket but realizing it’s made with better materials and a more generous cut than anything you own.
The Cultural Bridge: What makes Human Made special is how it takes American classics and reimagines them through a Japanese lens. The fits are looser, the materials are premium, and the details are subtle enough that only those in the know will recognize the references.
Signature Look: Vintage-inspired workwear with Japanese attention to detail, premium materials, and that relaxed, oversized fit that makes everything feel effortless. Think varsity jackets with extra room in the shoulders, work pants that actually have room to move, and graphics that reference American culture through a distinctly Japanese perspective.
Standout Piece
Human Made Varsity Jacket ($600-900) – combines Japanese craftsmanship with American collegiate aesthetics, sized generously enough to layer over anything.
Affordable Alternative
Karl Lagerfeld Paris Men’s Mixed Media Studded Bomber Jacket ($80-140) – offers similar silhouette and vintage appeal at a fraction of the cost. Look for the oversized fit options to capture that current aesthetic.
Highgate– (@highgate_official)
Sometimes the best fashion discoveries happen when you’re wandering through Tokyo’s fashion districts with no agenda, open to possibilities you never considered. Highgate represents that perfect intersection of risk-taking and reward—the kind of brand you stumble upon in a Shibuya boutique that makes you question everything you thought you knew about your own style.
Picture this: you’re in a dressing room in Japan, holding a pair of jeans with white chain stitching running up the front of each leg. They’re cut generously—part of that movement away from the restrictive fits we used to think we wanted. Your brain is asking “Can I really pull this off?” while your gut is screaming “This is exactly what you’ve been looking for.” The associate gives you a thumbs up despite the language barrier, and you pull the trigger on a piece that will become a conversation starter every time you wear it.
There’s something special about that moment when you realize you’re about to step outside your comfort zone. In that Shibuya dressing room, contemplating if I could really pull off those chain-stitched jeans, I felt that familiar crossroads moment that every fashion lover knows. The associate, although not fluent in English, gave me the thumbs up of approval and I pulled the trigger.
Every time I wear those jeans, I feel a pride that makes me walk with my head higher. They get looks and I know why—people don’t know what they are, but they want them. The loose fit feels modern, the chain stitching feels like a secret handshake, and the whole package feels like stepping into a version of myself I didn’t know existed.
The Philosophy: This is what real fashion discovery looks like—not following Instagram trends, but trusting your instincts and walking away with pieces that become part of your signature style. The courage to try something new, whether in a Tokyo boutique or on the L train to Brooklyn, is what separates those who follow from those who lead.
Signature Look: Barrier-breaking details that make people do a double-take on the street. The white chain stitching isn’t just decoration—it’s a statement that says you understand fashion beyond the obvious choices. The relaxed fit says you’re part of the oversized movement, but the unique details say you’re not just following trends.
Standout Piece
Chain-Stitched Denim ($200-300) – the kind of piece that makes you walk with your head higher because you know people are looking and wondering where you got them. Cut with that generous, modern fit that feels like freedom.
Affordable Alternative
DIY approach with Dickies 874 Work Pants ($40-60) plus white embroidery thread and basic stitching skills. Size up for that oversized aesthetic. Won’t have the same construction quality, but captures that custom, one-off feeling that makes Highgate special.
The Seams Legit Take
This is what the oversized movement is really about—not just wearing bigger clothes, but embracing the confidence that comes with stepping outside your comfort zone. Whether you’re navigating Tokyo’s fashion districts or catching that evening L train to Brooklyn, the goal is the same: finding pieces that make you feel like the most authentic version of yourself.
Japanese designers understand that the best fashion creates a feeling, not just a look. They’ve been championing loose fits, architectural proportions, and the courage to be different long before it became mainstream. When we adopt these approaches—whether it’s Yamamoto’s deconstructed minimalism, Nigo’s reimagined Americana, or Highgate’s barrier-breaking details—we’re not just following trends. We’re expressing the broad spectrum of what fashion can be.
The beauty of this cultural exchange is that it’s not about copying—it’s about understanding. Understanding that clothes should move with you, not against you. Understanding that the best style choices often feel risky at first. Understanding that fashion is about the journey of becoming who you want to be, not just covering your body.
Ready to step outside your comfort zone? Start with the affordable alternatives to understand the aesthetic, then invest in the pieces that speak to you. Fashion is about having the courage to try something new, whether you’re in a Shibuya boutique or browsing online at 2 AM.
The oversized movement isn’t going anywhere—it’s just getting started. The question is: are you ready to swim in your jeans?
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